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Guidebook - New Routes to 7th Edition

The 7th Edition of the Arthur's Pass Mountaineering Guidebook was released in November 2012. If you have unpublished routes please feel free to email me at graemek@xtra.co.nz with a detailed route description and marked up photograph (I can provide digital base photos of most peaks if necessary).

Mt Wakeman (2271m) West Face
"Black Tar Prophecy" (280m)

Grade 13/14 (Grade 3 Summer route only)

This route is accessed via from Denas Creek, from the upper Wilberforce River.

The route starts near the northern edge of the west face and heads up directly to the northern outlier peak (2210m) of Mt Wakeman. The route involved an exposed scramble (Grade 2) for approximately 80m before 5 pitches over approximately 200m. The first two pitches consist of grade 12 rock with lots of scree ledges.

The climbing and rock quality improves higher up route consisting of steeper, weathered and compact sandstone around grade 13/14 with lots of exposure on pitches 3 and 4. The final pitch (5) is over loose blocks to the summit of the northern outlier peak (2210m) of Mt Wakeman. Rock protection along the route is spaced but sufficient. The true summit of Mt Wakeman (2271m) is an easy snow plod across the neve that feeds the White Glacier.

The route may be climbed from a camp near the head of Denas Creek, this necessitates a descent back to the camp. This descent involved a traverse along the Mt Wakeman - Mt Murchison ridge to a notch and access to the snowfields at the head of Denas Creek (safe ground). Descent into the notch required a 45m abseil off the ridge on the White Glacier side of the ridge.

Ryan Nicol & Ellie Watson, 1 January 2016

Climbers Notes: We carried twin 60m ropes and found a full set of camalots (0 to 3), a set of nuts and a couple of knife blade pitons particularly useful.
Mt Wakeman (2271m) West Face
"Black Butterflies" (320m)

Grade 16 (Grade 3+ Summer route only)

The route starts roughly near the centre of the face before heading up a buttress and on to a prominent rib that runs diagonally up the face from left to right, topping out almost directly at the true summit of Mt Wakeman (2271m). A bergschrund may create issues later in the season.

The 1st pitch consists of a good compact sandstone face between a a shallow gully on the left and a larger gully on the right and is 60m long (grade 16). This pitch ends on a large belay ledge. Pitch 2 follows a slabby rib toward the buttress on good rock and is also about 60m long (grade 10-11). The 3rd pitch leads up behind the buttress into a corner before breaking out (crux grade 16) to the left and up on to the prominent rib feature (60m in length).

Pitches 4 and 5 follow the rib feature up sections of good rock sections of broken rock (up to grade 12) to a large belay ledge (approx 60m each). From here there are number of options for the upper part of the climb. Good rock exists on the impressive aretes visible on the ridge line although the climbing steepens dramatically here and it appeared that the climbing grade would also increase. Choosing to continue up the rib feature through 2 pitches (6 & 7) of deteriorating rock (up to grade 12) around 50m each. The final pitch (8) leads up and over the top of the rib feature on absolute choss to the summit ridge. Fortunately this pitch was short, around 15m in length.

From here the summit approximately 20m to the south and is a short easy scramble.

Descent is the same for "Black Tar Prophecy".

Jason Marshall & Ryan Nicol, 7 February 2016

Climbers Notes: We used double 60m ropes and carried doubles of cams (0 to 3) and a set of nuts. We found this to be more than sufficient rock protection for the climb. A smaller rack could be used but doubles of smaller cams 0 to 0.75 would be useful.
Mt Wakeman - West Face
Mt Wakeman - West Face

Mt Wakeman - West Face
Ellie Watson on pitch 3 of Mt Wakeman's "Black Tar Prophecy"

NOTE: Mt Foweraker was officially named in 2015. It is located on the ridge south of Sudden Valley Stream (E1493767 N5241310). Although it would have had ascents as part of traverses etc none have been documented.

Mt Foweraker (1804m) Northwest Ridge

Grade 1- Summer route only

Head up the stream that joins Sudden Valley Stream on the true-right about 500m downstream of Sudden Valley Biv. Travel up this stream is quite straight forward, no waterfalls etc, but a bit rough and slow in its lower reaches. The stream splits at 1100m, follow the south branch to about 1300m then start ascending the spur that leads to pt 1447m. Some avalanche risk may exist from the basins above! From here follow the broad ridge SSE over pt 1711m and then south to the summit.

Surveyed by Daryll Thompson & Stuart Columbus, 16 April 2015

Mt Foweraker (1804m) North Avalanche Chute

Grade 1- Summer route only

Ascend the Sudden Valley Stream for 4.2km from its junction with the Hawdon River to the obvious avalanche chute running north from Foweraker's west ridge (E1494897 N5242371), it is full of tree debris. Ascend the creek associated with the chute to where it gorges and climb the true-left spur ascending easily through beech forest. Once in open ground aim through the alpine scrub to the isolated stand of beech above and move true-right onto the very loose scree directly under the summit, easier travel is afforded by gaining the rocky spur on the true-right part way up. Ascend easily to summit. Note: In winter this route is fully threatened by large avalanches!

Surveyed by Tyler Brummer & Graeme Kates, 21 March 2015

Mt Foweraker (1804m) East Ridge

Grade 1-

From Hawdon Shelter cross the Hawdon River to the true-right bank and make your way to the electric fence that crosses the terrace before Sudden Valley Stream. Where the fence meets the toe of the east ridge start bashing your way uphill utilising trapping lines where convenient. From the 1035m knob continue pushing through extensive beech regen, attempting to stay on the brow of the ridge and following deer trails. The route becomes less scrubby at the 1158m point. Continue following the ridge through varying ground, there is some loose rock scrambles before the 1720m point. The ridge is about 4.4km long. Note: In winter there may be issues with cornices and avalanche terrain about its upper flanks!

Surveyed by Tyler Brummer & Graeme Kates, 21 March 2015

Mt Foweraker - NW Ridge
Mt Foweraker - NW Ridge
Mt Foweraker
Mt Foweraker - East Ridge

Cow Peak (2022m) SE Face
"Greet the Sacred Cow"

280m Grade 14 (2+) Summer route

This route is accessed from the Anti-Crow Valley and starts at the toe of the obvious buttress in the centre of the face.

The route heads up roughly the centre of the buttress (more sustained options could be in the extreme left of the buttress) to the top of it where it ends in a rock arete opposite the large notch in the ridge line between Gizeh Col and Cow Peak. The notch is avoided by following the arete towards the notch and turning north to follow slabs and then a gully to the summit ridge roughly 100m south of the summit proper.

The rock is surprisingly good with comfortable belay ledges at the top of each pitch. The seventh and final pitch to the ridge is a bit chossy but is manageable.

Descent is via Cow Peak ridge to Fools Col and back to the head of the Anti-Crow.

We used a a single 60 m rope, a full set of nuts, and found Camalots 1 through to 3, a set of hexes and 3 - 4 slings to be useful.

Ryan Nicol & Ellie Watson, 24 January 2015

Note: This buttress may have had previous ascents; if you are aware of any such ascents please contact me!


Phipps Peak (1965m) South Ridge Slabs
"CFS - Chronic Freezing Syndrome"

140m Grade 14/15 (Summer route)

Start in the gully between the two slabs and scramble up the low angle terrain tending right for about 45 m until reaching a small gravel ledge. Pitch up the center of the face. First pitch grade 10 - 12 on solid rock with limited gear. Second pitch tend left following a large crack. At the end of the crack traverse briefly left to the arete to avoid loose rock. Head up the arete to the base of a loose gully with a small roof to your right. Pop onto the roof (crux, grade 14/15) and summit. Good quality, solid rock (for Arthurs Pass) the whole route. Summit Mt Temple then descend via the normal descent route (6.14).

Note: We used a single rack of nuts, tri-cams and cams (000 - 3 camalots). An extra one or two #3 camalots (or equivalent) would have been nice to protect the long crack on pitch 2.

Terra Dumont & Matt Hanson, 26 April 2014


Note: This buttress has had previous ascents however the precise details of any route are not known.

Mt Temple (1913m) Temple Buttress
"Carter / Gough Gully"

Ungraded (winter route)

This route starts directly below the major incised gully between Central & Right Buttresses, but climbs the couloir that flanks the Central Buttress through steep terrain. In 1973 this route finished at the base of the broad gully ascending to the north ridge. In August of 1974 the route was extended by climbing the craggy spur to the south and subsequently to the north ridge of Mt Temple. Descend via the normal descent route (6.14).
Bryan Carter & Peter Gough 1973
Hugh Logan, Warick Anderson & Paul Scaife August 1974

Mt Temple (1913m) Temple Buttress
"Choked Gut Gully"

Ungraded (winter route)

Climb the steep, narrow couloir that ascends on the left of the descent routes ramp (6.14). The "choke" is midway up this couloir. 2/3 way up easier ground (spur) is met to the summit of Mt Temple. Descend via the normal descent route (6.14).
Hugh Logan & Wilf Lammerick July 1972


Mt Temple (1913m) Temple Buttress
"Lammerink / Jenkins Route & Logan / Scaife Route" (see also "Temple of Doom" below)

Grade 2+ (winter 200m)

The Lammerink / Jenkins start climbs the obvious deep gully between Left & Central Butresses; the Logan / Scaife start climbs the slab and splinter gully out to the right. Both join and follow the major gully, tending left at the gully conflence, then climbing the lesser slopes to join the north ridge of Mt Temple. Descend via the normal descent route (6.14).
James Jenkins, Wilf Lammerink, Hugh Logan & Paul Scaife 29/07/1973

Mt Temple (1913m) Temple Buttress
"Smith / Glystra Route"

Ungraded

Start 1/4 way up the normal descent route (6.14) taking the north sloping gully adjacent the right buttress. Climb the steep head-wall out of the gully, then easier ground to the summit of Mt Temple.
Andrew Smith & Colin Glystra 1973


Mt Temple (1913m) Temple Buttress
"The Last Crusade"

Grade 2+ (winter)

This climb starts at the base of the second gut to the left of Left Buttress. Climb the gut through three pitches (150m) directly up onto the north ridge of Mt Temple. Good rock protection (stoppers and a few [tri]cams). Descend via the normal descent route (6.14).
Craig Hosking & Oliver Boyd 19/10/2013


Guidebook - New Routes to 6th Edition

The 6th Edition of the Arthur's Pass Mountaineering Guidebook was released in April 2004. Since publication climbers have approached me with "new routes" on some of the Park's summits. These have been included in the 7th Edition of the guidebook, and are listed below.

Mt Rolleston (2275m)
Glacier Spur Route

5.1f Grade 2+ (winter)

Initially follow route 5.4 towards the wide gully leading to Mt Lancelot however traversing true-left to the base of the prominent spur that flanks the true-right of the Crow Glacier (beware of avalanche terrain). Follow the spur-crest in winter over mixed conditions on 40º terrain with some steep ice pitches about the mid-way point, the angle eases as it approaches the Lancelot-Rolleston Traverse, follow the ridge traverse until you can drop into the neve of the Crow Glacier continuing towards High Peak (2275m) ascending routes 5.1c-e to the summit. This route is not recommended in summer as it consists of extremely loose rock.
Richard Strong & Mattie Scheider Aug 2008

Mt Oates (2054m)
Southwest Spur Routes

8.4a "I may be some time" Grade 2+

Gain the southwest spur at it's toe or at half-height using snow/scree slopes and easy scrambling on the right. Above half-height is a fantastic defined rib with easy climbing but terrific exposure. The final section of the spur steepens, with a couple of 5m vertical steps that can be climbed in one 60m pitch. From the top of the pitch it's 30-40m scramble to the summit. Overall the rock quality is good, apart from a couple of loose sections during and above the top pitch. A confident party could solo until the final pitch but simul-climbing until the final steep section suits the lower route.
Rob Frost & Claire Gibb 11/12/2011

Image by Yvonne Pfluger
 

Mt Temple (1913m)
West Face Routes

6.14a "Temple of Doom" Grade 2+ (winter 200m)

Start up the couloir between the Left Buttress and Central Buttress and over a short section of 70 degree thin waterfall ice at one third height with a couple of mixed moves. Stay right when the couloir branches and continue up a short rock step with a skinny seam of ice at two thirds height. Follow easy snow to the ridge.
First Ascent - James Jenkins, Wilf Lammerink, Hugh Logan & Paul Scaife 29/07/1973

Description by Alex Geary 27/9/2011

6.14b "Normal ascent/descent gully"
Grade 1- (220m)

This is the broad gully to the true-left of Right Buttress. In summer beware of loose rock and in winter avalanches. Towards the top follow ramps to join the main south ridge.

Alpine Rock Routes

Mt Rolleston (2275m) - "Headstone Gully" 250m
Grade 2+

The route follows the gully to the right of the access for Central Direct (Mt Rolleston -Otira Face). Climb to the top of the scree slope at the base of the climb and join the gully from there. The climbing on the lower half of the route is on reasonably solid rock and is relatively straightforward. The rock gets looser as you approach the prominent overhang/ roof at about 2/3 height, there is possibilities for good anchor on right hand side of overhang (small cams helpful e.g. .5 camalot and smaller). Climb around overhang via weakness on wall at right side (crux), this section is tricky but is protectable and leads to easier ground. A couple of short scree tiers lead to the final gully system. Climb these gullies to the ridge top. The top gullies are insecure and offer limited chance for protection. Climb to summit via Philistine-Rolleston Ridge.
Matt Sheat & Alan Haslip 30/4/2011
Headstone Gully

Alpine Rock Routes

Mt Wakeman Northeast Slabs - "Hug A Ginga" 200m Grade 15

This route is near the Barker Hut. Located at the north-eastern end (lowest point) of a outlier summit (2189m) on the Northeast ridge of Mt Wakeman (2271m). This 200 metre high, orange coloured triangle shaped buttress can be seen directly out of the west-facing window of Barker Hut. Walk for about 30 minutes from the hut up towards the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier. The climb starts once past some steep, smooth rock with vertical cracks (good options also) and then a broken, rust coloured gully. Climb up slabs with short steep sections for two pitches (grade 15 with good protection), then easier climbing up to grade 14 through fantastic orange rock for another three pitches. Either scramble up from there to the outlier summit, or angle easily down a scree ledge system back into the basin opposite the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier.
John Price & Paul Hersey 27/11/2010
Wakeman Slabs

Alpine Rock Routes

Anti-Crow River - "Waimak Whale Crag" (989m)

Whale Crag is located west (1.4km) of Anti-Crow Hut on the true-right of Anti-Crow Stream (K33 876003). Access is very straightforward; descent off all current routes is by abseil (50m). The crag offers nice slab and shallow crack climbing with low grades. The setting is very beautiful and it escapes some Divide weather. The lower routes are surprisingly sheltered from the wind.

"Bellbird" 40m Grade 14

Pitch 1 (15m): Start on the bushy lump 10m left of Shallow Splendour. Climb a few crumbly metres to the left trending crack, follow this up to ledge and belay.

Pitch 2 (25m): Climb left up good looking crack through steep section and easily out to bush belay.
Aaron Gillespie
2009


"Shallow Splendour" 45m

Pitch 1 (15m) Grade 17: Start on left side of main base area. Up and 2m across sloping ledge. Straight up cleaned cracks to belay off bushy ledge.

Pitch 2 (30m) Grade 7: Climb in almost any direction from bushy ledge to the top.
Aaron Gillespie
2009


"Ataxia" 45m

Pitch 1 (15m) Grade 16: Start up and right of Shallow Splendour, follow right hand side through bulge and up to top.

Pitch 2 (30m) Grade 7: Climb in almost any direction from bushy ledge to the top.
Adele Reweti
2009


Whale Rock

Mt Aicken (1867m) Graham Stream - 

"No Pant's Nathan" 60m WI4

Located in the north branch of Graham Stream (Otira E2394300 N5806000). Accessible from above via scree into head of stream from the Mt Aicken track, or from below via Graham Stream. Waterfall ice normally begins to form here in late May / early June, though can be very short lived. Further information to come.
Gideon Geerling & Jim Masson
June 10 2009
Graham Stream Ice Climbs

Alpine Rock Routes

Mt Harper (2222m)

1.12 NE Ridge Slabs Grade 17

Approach to these slabs is across the permanent snowfields underlying the north ridge of Mt Speight (2116m) then onto the permanent snowfield under the southeast flank of Mt Harper (2222m).

Both of the routes shown commence near the toe of a rock slab comprising "solid" gritstone and follow weaknesses in the face.

The face is about 70 metres at highest point and 15-20 metres across. There is potential for a couple more routes on the face. 60 metre ropes are good, a set of wires with doubles of mids and a handful of cams should see you right.

Left hand route climbs on the face to the right of the arete. Good gear can be found on the face through cracks and breaks. 50 metres of interesting climbing on good rock.
J Dempster & A Gillespie
13/12/2008


The right hand route starts near the centre of face; head up and slightly right following gear to about the middle of the face. Straight up from here. Good gear but a bit spaced at times. 55 metres.
A Gillespie & J Dempster
13/12/2008


Mt Harper - NE Ridge Slabs

Mt Speight (2116m)

Harper Creek - NE Ridge Grade 12

This route has had several ascents over the past decade; though its first ascentionists have not been recorded.

Head towards the basin below the NE face routes. Ascend rock slab on far left which leads to main north east ridge. From here the ridge steepens to a short 10-15 metre pitch (Grade 12). Above is a nice red arete, follow until broader easier ground to loose rock for the final 50-80m to the summit. Descend normal route (North Ridge).
J Dempster & A Gillespie
14/12/2008

Mt Speight - NE Ridge

Campbell Pass to Upper Waimakariri River

This route is included to clarify "tramping" information which has become out-dated after earthquake and slip damage on the "original" route.

From Campbell Pass follow the upper bogs/streams, downstream until you reach a position about 200 metres back from the Campbell Stream waterfall (the original route went down vegetated slabs on the true-right of this waterfall, recent slips make this a dangerous undertaking, though climbing higher may still allow a contrived route around this way). As an alternate climb the spur towards Carrington Peak (past a huge erratic boulder) onto the rim of the escarpment overlooking the Waimakariri River. From near the highest point a series of linked vegetated gullies and terraces (the non-steep ones!) sidle true-left and down to join the head of a obvious scree gut, that leads into the major scree fan below. Descend this to the river bashing through the scrub barrier at the bottom. Snow, ice or wet vegetation makes all potential routes in this area hazardous!
Graeme Kates
2008

 
Campbell Pass - Waimakariri River

Waimakariri Col to Mt Philistine to Otira Valley

Variation to Philistine Traverse  Grade 1+
This route is included to clarify "tramping" information contained in other recent publications. Please note I would not consider this a tramping route, given the terrain (especially in winter) and potential navigation problems.

From Waimakariri Col sidle around on screes/snow-slopes gaining height to the base of a narrow couloir that joins the Philistine - Rolleston Ridge out to the north side of the scree fan (these slopes can be avalanche prone in winter, crevasses form here in late Spring). This 80m gully contains extremely loose rock in summer, or hard ice in winter. Once on the ridge you travel towards Mt Philistine, all major ridge obstacles (gendarmes) are bypassed on the Rolleston River side (some may require you to drop 50-100m from the ridge). Once on Mt Philistine you descend the scree/snow-slope to the hanging valley that runs down the left side of Philistine's east ridge (this ridge forms the escarpment into the Otira Valley), Route 6.8. This route may have rock cairns to the edge of a 150m cliff that descends to Warnocks Knob. There is a zig zag route down through this bluff that is generally a scramble, keeping away from bluffs & cliffs (if you slip or fall, there is nothing to stop you to the bottom). It should not be attempted in wet or loose snow/ice conditions. From the base of the cliff you descend the scree to the foot-bridge in the Otira Valley.
Graeme Kates
2008

 
Waimak Col - Mt Philistine

Mt Alexander (1958m)
This route is in Otira-Kopara Conservation Area, included here as not in any other climbing guide.

12.11 Camp Creek (West Ridge)  Grade 1
This is the "normal" approach route to Mt Alexander. From Jacksons on Hwy 73 turn into Lake Brunner Road and follow to the Camp Creek bridge (12.7km), a DOC sign marks the access road to the car park (170m ASL) on the northern side of the bridge. Follow the tramping track up Camp Creek, a landslide will shortly force a double crossing of the creek, then the track commences its steep climb above the canyon. The track sidles back to the upper creek, then crosses it, reaching the sign-posted junction to the Camp Creek hut (6 bunks) after 300m. Time to the hut is 2 - 3 hours from the car park.

From the junction (730m ASL) follow the marked track, it crosses two creeks then commences its steep ascent on a Rata clad rock rib towards the obvious rock tors on the main ridge. At treeline the route is marked by poles. The poled route is easily followed to the 1795m mark. Time to this point is about 1.5 - 2 hours. Beyond this point the ridge becomes narrow, loose, and steepens with some gendarmes that can be bypassed on either side. Time to the summit is a further 1 - 2 hours. The hut is commonly used as a base for this climb. In winter avalanche risk exists on all flanks of the Alexander's west ridge. Heavy rain makes Camp Creek and its tributaries uncrossable.
First ascent not recorded
Mt Alexander - West Ridge

Mt Alexander (1958m)
This route is in Otira-Kopara Conservation Area, included here as not in any other climbing guide.

12.10 SE Ridge  Grade 1+
There is no easy way to approach this ridge, the full flow of the Taramakau River (includes the Otira River) must be crossed in one or two channels, then a west coast scrub bash ensues to gain the upper ridge, from either the true right spur adjacent the creek draining the Mt Howe basin, or an obvious diagonal fault scarp about 200m further downstream. Either way there tends to be some steep, slippery terrain hidden in the beech forest. Once treeline is reached travel along the wide open ridge is easy. Steepening rock is encountered about 300m short of the summit, in winter the snow/ice allows fairly easy travel (beware of cornices!), in summer expect loose, gruddy rock. An alternative is to track west under the ridge rocks using a series of interlinked scree/snow gullies that lead to the summit, this makes an easier descent route (take care in winter as these are also avalanche paths).
Graeme Kates
9 September 2007
Mt Alexander - SE Ridge

Mt Franklin (2145m)

9.14 SE Face "Way Down Sally" Route Grade 5- (8 pitches)
Take the narrow couloir that starts on the right hand side of the main buttress in the centre of the face. Ascend 3 pitches to the snowfield at mid-height. Trend left up the snow field for 1 pitch to the rock rib. Follow the gully to the right of this onto the upper snowfields. The route joins the South Ridge (8.7) approximately 75m to the SW of the summit. Descend via the South Ridge.
Don French, James Wright
22 October 2006
Way Down Sally

Mt Damfool (2030m)

1.12 The Sunglasses Route Grade 2+ (Rock crux 12)
This nine pitch route starts on the extreme right hand end of a large and obvious bench accessed from basin above the waterfalls at the head of the Anti-Crow River. It then follows through a short steep section then follows slabs angling left until on the main arete. The rock is excellent; compact greywacke, great friction, but sparse protection available. From the top of the arete the route follows an easy but broken ridge over a short step to main summit.
Andy Cole & Paul Stevens
14 April 2005
The Sunglasses Route

Mt Philistine (1967m)

6.9h The Bone Collector Grade 4+/5
(Rock or Ice)
Follow faint buttress line diagonally right through mixed ground for 5 pitches, traverse left at a short wall and up a short couloir to climb steep ice covered slabs and then head diagonnally right over exposed mixed ground to a short 4m wall ( extremely loose rock), climb delicately over this to reach steep snow at first and then onto the main snowfield below Mt Philistine. Return via route 6.8.
Gerard Smith & Brian Alder
July 2002
Bone Collector

Alpine Rock Routes

Otira Slabs - Otira Valley

There has been a flurry of climbing on the Otira Slabs recently, hence a web of new climbs covers the face. Still waiting on descriptions, names and grades for many, I will update these as they come to hand.

"Sonam

1st pitch (Grade 15) 45m - Belay on the higher ledge and head up and right. Straight up through the scrappy section then into a prominant crack that takes good gear.
James Dempster & Hamish Reid
December 2003


2nd pitch (Grade 15) 25m - Start near middle of wall and head slightly left. Poor pro.
David Livingston & James Dempster
January 2005


"Fly My Pretties" (Grade 16) 48m

Traverse along the ramp then straight up. Crux is near the top. Good gear placements but requires a bit of a clean. Good anchors at the top. Scramble up and belay on the obvious ledge or you'll run out of rope!
James Dempster & Sarah O'Donohue
December 2004


"Kea Kindergarten" (Grade 14) 25m

Right trending weakness to the right of the 2nd pitch of 'Sonam'. Well featured and good placements for large wires/small hexes and mid range SLCDs.
Hamish Reid & David Livingston
April 2005
Fly My Pretties

Castle Hill Peak (1998m) - Descent/Ascent variations

For those that have wandered up Routes 13.21 or 13.22 to Mt Plenty (1459m) and then carried onto Castle Hill Peak (1998m), there is a multitude of traverses that lead back down into the Ghost Creek catchment. Prefered season is winter when snow/ice is glueing all the loose grud together. From the summit of Castle Hill Peak continue north to the minor summit (1941m) then turn north west and follow the obvious ridge that descends on the true right of the Ghost Creek catchment. To carry on along the north west ridge leads to various easy descent paths into Ghost Creek. At a point (E2409672 N5772604) a spur departs westwards, this is the most "adventurous" route, it enters beech forest, stay on the ridgeback initially but as it narrows keep towards the true left near a very steep escarpment into Ghost Creek, to carry on to the nose of this ridge will require 2 ropes and slings for trees to descend it's cliff, however about 250m prior to the cliff near point (E2408472 N5772464) a steep and winding couloir descents directly through the bluffs to the head of a scree in Ghost Creek, it requires snow/ice (non-avalanche) and crampons to be worn to make it safe (would be nasty if snow-free). Enter it via the secondary gully a few metres uphill to avoid its vertical lip.
Graeme Kates & Pavel Sedivy
July 2007
Castle Hill Peak variations


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